Acquired: June 2009

Decommissioned:

Current Status: CURRENT SUMMER RIDE

Year: 1995

Make: Ford

Model: Mustang GT

Engine: 302ci - 5.0L

Transmission: 5 Speed Manual, 2.73 Gears (Stock)

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Acquired: September 2008

Decommissioned: June 2009

Current Status: TRADED (1995 Ford Mustang)

Year: 1988

Make: Ford

Model: F350 Superduty 4 Door

Engine: 351ci - 5.8L

Transmission: 3 Speed Automatic

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Removal is pretty straightforward. After removing the wheel, remove the disc brake caliper and tie it up out of the way. Remove the sway bar links. Next, remove the cotter key from the tie rod end, loosen the tie rod nut several threads (but don't remove it) and use a tie rod seperator (pickle fork) to break it loose. Several raps with a 3 lb sledge hammer should do it. You may tear up the grease boot but that can easily be replaced. Next, place a floorjack under the lower A-arm and raise it just enough to relieve the tension on the suspension. Remove the 2 lower strut bolts and then VERY CAREFULLY lower the floorjack until the spring literally falls out. Clean everything up and you're ready for installation.

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Fuel injected Mustangs use a small motor/valve assembly that allows a certain amount of air to bypass the throttle plate, entering the engine to control idle. As mileage increases dirt, air filter oil, and carbon build-up will take it’s toll and often cause idle surging and stalling. This can happen as early as 30,000 miles depending on conditions (K&N’s really speed up the process). Why replace it when you can clean it?

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